One of the most important mountaineering stories is published by National Geographic, on their adventure blog. Andrew Bisharat, a climber from Colorado, has written a report from Islamabad, about the succesful and highly acclaimed winter ascent on Nanga Parbat (8 126 m), made by a team of four: Simone Moro, Tamara Lunger (both from Italy), Alex Txikon (Spain) and Muhammad Ali of Sadpara, Pakistan (aka Ali Sadpara).
But beyond the “premiere” – the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat -, Simone Moro pointed out why this expedition is so important:
Honestly, Alex, Ali, and I all have difficulties not considering Tamara a summitter, like us. We were 100 percent sure she was coming to the summit, because the distance where she stopped and turned back was just so close. She was only 70 meters below us. We could wave to her. But she really was completely exhausted, and she had been having stomach problems all morning.
Like I said, this is the first time in my climbing career that I’ve seen such a generous and very smart way of thinking. She denied herself the summit to avoid putting us in danger. It would be like you are close to winning an Olympic medal, and two meters before the finish line, you stop, turn around, and help someone in trouble. It was really incredible to witness.